Springtime in Granada
Please book at https://events.rps.org/4LrdQ66/5a2NN272Cyj
While the Travel Group requires no payment and attendees will be responsible for covering their own costs for transport, accommodation and all meals and visits, it is strongly recommended that you book these things - and your Alhambra visit - very soon.
Springtime in Granada
22nd to 27th March 2025 (5 nights)
Accompanied by Dr. Colin Howard FRPS
Granada is like no other Spanish city. It is situated in Andalusia, the southern-most province of Spain. With the stunning backdrop of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, the rivers Genil and Darro conducts the melt water through the city. Here in Granada the Arabic influence found throughout much of Spain reaches its zenith.
The city is dominated by the Alhambra, the palace of the last Moorish rulers of Spain prior to their eviction in 1792 by the Catholic rulers Ferdinand and Isabella. The taking of Granada by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella in 1492 heralded the Spanish expansion that ultimately led to the discovery of the New World. To understand the history of Granada is to understand the history of Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Granada was the hometown of Federico Garcia Lorca, arguably the most famous Spanish poet and dramatist of the 20th century. The house where Lorca grew up can be visited in the Huerta San Vicente. Here looking out from his bedroom window Lorca wrote some of his most famous early poems and plays. If circumstances allow, we will visit his birthplace in Fuente Vaqueros, some 15km from the city. Close to the Alhambra Hill is the former mansion of his close friend, the composer Manuel de Falla.
Lorca was enamoured by the gypsies living in the Albaicín district, and took a deep interest in flamenco and the gypsy culture. It is hoped to visit a flamenco tablao in Sacramonte, long regarded as the centre of flamenco in Spain.
The Alhambra together with the associated Generalife Gardens are among Spain’s most visited attractions. The Nasrid Palace is a ‘must see’: built by the last Nasrid dynasty, the walls are decorated with intricately carved verses of Arabic poetry and quotes from the Koran.
Itinerary
There will not be fixed daily schedule owing to the variability in opening times, the weather, etc... Planned visits include the following:
1. No trip to Granada is complete without visiting the Alhambra, its palaces and gardens (Generalife). A visit would take up most of the day.
NB: it is essential to make a reservation for visiting the Alhambra. I recommend making a reservation as soon as you can, ideally several months ahead of your intended visit.
The Nasrid Palace opens at 8:30am with the last tours at 7:00pm. You will need your passport with you to gain entry, as well as your ticket. The Generalife gardens are best visited in the morning, and the Alhambra palace itself either very early or in the late afternoon when some of the crowds have dissipated and the sun gives the walls a pleasant orange glow. For early risers, booking for 8:30am entry means arriving there at around 7:30 if you want to minimise the numbers ahead of you for the all-important interior shots. If you go in the early morning, the Alhambra Palace Hotel half way down the hill is a good place for breakfast. Alternatively, I recommend the Parador for lunch.
Reservations can be made on the official website: https://tickets.alhambra-patronato.es This website is in English. Beware, if you Google ‘Alhambra’ there are many agents that are listed higher, and there is a risk that they may charge you extra for the privilege of purchasing tickets through them rather than the official Spanish Government website.
2. The Albaicín hill opposite the Alhambra with its steep and narrow streets offers plenty of photographic potential. The origin of the name is obscure but probably stems from the migration of moors from the northern town of Baeza during the Christian conquest of southern Spain. It also affords one of the best views of the Alhambra at sunset. The Darro River divides Albaicin from the Alhambra hill until it disappears under the city’s main thoroughfares. There is a bus service from the central area to both Albaicin and the Alhambra hill.
3. Attached to the Cathedral, built on the site of the ancient mosque, is the Royal Chapel where the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella are buried. Their tombs are well worth a visit and the chapel includes the tombs of their daughter Juana and her husband Felipe.
4. Monosterio San Jerónimo. A short walk from the Cathedral. Founded by the Catholic Monarchs, this Augustinian monastery boasts two magnificent cloisters and chapel.
5. The Carmen of Antequeruela contains the home of Manuel de Falla, one of Spain’s most well-known composers. The gardens (‘Carmen’) are magnificent although entry times to the house appear to be sporadic. It can be visited most conveniently following a visit to the nearby Alhambra.
6. Beyond Albaicin is the hill of Sacromonte, the cradle of flamenco. Its houses reach far back into caves excavated from the hillside. If possible, a visit to flamenco show will be arranged. It may be possible also to arrange for a private photographic shoot if there is sufficient interest. This cannot be guaranteed, and the cost would obviously have to be shared between those attending.
7. Federico Garcia Lorca was born in the village of Fuentes Vaqueros, some 15km west of the city. Visits to the house of his birth are by arrangement. His family shortly afterwards moved to Huerta San Vicente, long since swallowed up into the city. The house can be visited and the room where Lorca wrote some of his most famous poems is still as it was when he was a young man living with his parents.
It is suggested the participants gather each evening at 7:30pm to prepare notes, et cetera in the courtyard area of the Áurea Eurostar hotel immediately opposite the cathedral.
Colin will be available in the Áurea Eurostar hotel at 9:30am on the first morning (Sunday 23rd March) to provide a short briefing and introduction to the city.
Travel and Accommodation
Although there is a modern airport just 15 km outside of Granada, it is not served by any direct flights from the UK. The most convenient way is to fly to Malaga and then onwards by bus. The latter takes between 1 ½ and two hours, depending on the service. (www.alsa.com). The bus station in Granada is some distance from the city centre and a taxi is recommended.
Alternatively, there are frequent trains from Madrid’s Atoche station (with its garden area, worth a visit in itself!). The journey takes 4 to 5 hours. There are one or two direct trains a day, others require a change of trains en route at Antequera. Note: fast trains (‘AVE”) require reservations ahead of time. Most major stations on the network have airport-style security screening of luggage. Tickets can be purchased from www.renfe.com or from Rail Europe.
Granada is sufficiently compact to make many sights accessible by walking. But it is a hilly city, and you may prefer to use the bus or take a taxi to reach Albaicin, Sacromonte, or the Alhambra. There are bus ticket machines at major stops: it is best to have change although credit cards are accepted.
As you would expect, there are the usual accommodation options found in any large city. The focal meeting point will be the Áurea Eurostar Hotel opposite the cathedral (www.eurostarshotels.co.uk). There is also one of the best state-owned paradors on the Alhambra Hill. Although very convenient for the Alhambra, it is outside of the city centre and expensive. Reservations need to be made well ahead of time if you plan to stay in the Parador.
Here are some suggestions for 5 nights:
Other possibilities:
All of these hotels are close to the Cathedral area and are available at a range of prices either with or without breakfast.
If members wish for help with bookings, please contact Alison Mees (alisonmeesphotography@gmail.com) who will be pleased to help. Bookings through Alison will have the additional benefit of being ATOL protected.
When you register interest on the website, we will send details of recommended flights. If a group of participants arrives at similar times we may be able to arrange group transport from Malaga airport.
Additional Notes
There are few photo stores in Granada. Participants should check they have everything they need before leaving home in the way of batteries, SD cards, etc. Tripods are difficult to use within the city centre but may prove useful for night shooting and shots of the Alhambra from Albaicin.
Although Granada is regarded as a safe city, participants should take car with their equipment just as they would in any large European location. I have been informed by local photographers that thieves in Spain target high end cameras: for this reason, it is best to black out camera names on camera bodies with black masking tape and use straps or bags that do not bear the manufacturer’s name.
The weather in Granada in the spring can be unpredictable, ranging from below zero in the winter to the scorching temperatures above 400C in high summer. Temperatures begin to rise sharply in early May. Participants should also be prepared for rain showers at any time. Many streets are cobbled so a decent pair of walking shoes is essential.
Finally, Malaga is an underrated city for photography. Spending one or more days in Malaga is worth the effort. The city has done much to improve its ambience in recent years and of course has famous sites such as the Picasso Museum. There is a left luggage area with lockers just outside of the arrivals hall of the airport and there is a fast metro service direct to the city centre.
NB. At some time during 2025 the European travel authorisation scheme (ETIAS) is due to be introduced. This will require all non-EU visitors to apply (and pay!) for authorisation to enter the EU Schengen zone, which includes Spain. Please check carefully at https://travel-europe.europa.eu/etias/what-etias_en for up to date information before leaving home.
Suggested reading
As is so often the case, some prior research pays dividends. Here are some reading suggestions by way of background:
Iberia, by James Michener. Although first published in the 1960s, there have been many reprints since and is still available. This is an excellent introduction to the country and Spanish culture. I read this as a teenager and I have been an Hispanophile ever since!
Lorca’s Granada: A Practical Guide by Ian Gibson. This book describes various walking routes around Granada and its immediate vicinity, with reference, of course, to points of interest concerning the life of Lorca. It may be difficult to find but worth the effort.
The Moor’s Last Stand by Elizabeth Drayson. An account of the life of the last Sultan ruler of Granada. Contains essential background to how the Alhambra came to be the seminal marker of Moorish influence in Spain.
Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving. Perhaps the most well-known account of any 19th century traveller to Granada. Very easy to buy locally in Granada, copies on sale in almost any language!
The inevitable disclaimer
Please note: I bear no responsibility for the accuracy of these notes. Local timings and arrangements can change quickly in Spain and it is advisable to check directly with any hotel, etc. as to the latest arrangements and prices. I will be on hand to offer guidance to any participant that needs assistance with their photography or getting around, but this is not a workshop and participants will be free to pursue any option as they wish.
Remember the words of Spanish poet Antonio Machado:
Traveller, it is your footprints
on the road, and nothing more.
Traveller, there is no road,
the road is made by walking.
Walking makes the road
and looking back one sees,
the trodden path that never
will be set foot upon again.
Traveller, there is no road
but wakes upon the sea.
Dr Colin Howard, FRPS
September 2024