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3 Water Lily

How Julian Song brings his fantasy world to life

The daring young fashion photographer uses AI with caution to help realise his playful visions

‘Water lily, Shanghai, China, 2023’ by Julian Song

The debate over Artificial Intelligence (AI) has only just begun. Clearly it’s part of our lives now, with applications – good and bad – used everywhere, from self-driving cars to wildlife conservation to medical science.

When it comes to the visual arts, AI is an especially contentious subject. It can be difficult to tell whether videos and photos appearing online are real or fake.

The idea of authenticity, though, remains vital to many photographers, with that bond between the creator and the viewer an important part of why photography is trusted.

Commercial photographer Julian Song is not so hung up on whether an image represents reality or not. His priority is to create the playful, arresting images he has in his head.

Born in rural north-east China, the 28-year-old divides his time between Shanghai and London. He has worked for fashion brands including Nike, Calvin Klein, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci. His work has featured in titles including GQ, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue.

Throughout his career he has played with trickery and effects such as models suspended by wires – flying through the air or standing upright on a unicycle – the wire work influenced by his love of Asian action films. He also has no issue with editing his work, for instance removing wires, adding effects, distorting and manipulating images, or creating composites in Photoshop.

1 Another Way To Ride A Bike

‘Another way to ride a bike, Aranya, China, 2022’ by Julian Song

“This image is from a shoot we did next to the ocean for Louis Vuitton,” says Song, referring to ‘Another way to ride a bike, Aranya, China, 2022’. “I spent 10 hours photographing outside Louis Vuitton’s fashion show in China. I used a crane so we could suspend the model using wires.

“The model is wearing a very cool white suit. When I tell the models my ideas, they think it’s fun. They’re keen to try to do something different and unusual. They get excited. I have the staff who can help me, so I work out how to do the images, like someone standing on a unicycle like this. I like very graphic, clean images, with straight lines and no distractions.”

Song explains how he used wires to create another image, ‘Float, Aranya, China, 2022’. “I endeavoured to suspend the model above the sea surface, creating an ethereal floating effect,” he says. “The wires allowed me to create a surreal ambience, lending the image an otherworldly quality.

“Through this method I aimed to evoke a sense of wonder and intrigue in the viewer, inviting them to contemplate the boundaries between reality and imagination. The result is a captivating portrayal that transcends conventional perceptions, offering a glimpse into a realm where the ordinary is transformed into the extraordinary.”

Song has also been prepared to embrace AI, especially when it meant avoiding the considerable expense of renting a helicopter. “This image was taken for Marie Claire China,” he says of ‘Water lily, Shanghai, China, 2023’. “This was my first ever AI work. AI is popular and I wanted to give it a try. I love the image – it’s so beautiful.

2 ‘Float, Aranya, China, 2022’ By Julian Song

‘Float, Aranya, China, 2022’ by Julian Song

“I wanted this photo to look like the girl had come to the beach by helicopter, that she’d come down out of the helicopter and made her way to the beach. I photographed the model in my studio and used AI for the rest, and then I Photoshopped them both together. Even the shadows are from AI. AI is such a good tool to do something creative. It did save a lot of money.”

He has used AI in other images, too, including a model on a bed surrounded by cats. Besides the logistical challenges of controlling and arranging so many animals, Song is actually allergic to cats.

Beyond the ethical debate, there’s a simpler reason the photographer is unlikely to be relying on AI in the near future. “AI is fun. It gives me possibilities for photos that are not possible any other way, but I will not use it anymore,” he says. “It’s so tiring. It will never really understand you. I spent so long trying to tell the AI what I wanted, but AI didn’t really get me or what I was trying to do.

“It’s still so young and it makes my job much more complicated. It tries to understand things in a normal way, but it can’t be very flexible, and it took me such a long time to talk to the AI – it gave me a headache.”

Julian Song selects his ‘Best shots’ in the October-December 2024 issue of the RPS Journal.

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